I've recently bought a AX6002P, 60V 2A power supply. I wanted to reduce the number of AC adapters offering various voltages, scrapped from various devices and a cheap USB-programmable power supply looked very promising. I've got mine from TME and probably I could get it cheaper from DX or Alibaba, but I wanted to have any support just in case. Surely made in PRC.
[TODO: front|back image here]
You may also notice the RS232 port near the USB.
Usage of the device is intuitive and easy, but it has some minor gotchas:
0) The device is not 60V/2A, but actually 60V/2.1A and it displays values accordingly. Not a thing to complain about :)
1) Moving the knob has no effect unless you press "Voltage/Current" button. This is reasonable from the safety point of view - I'd certainly not want to accidentally bump the voltage by +-10V! For the same purpose there's also LOCK button. This makes the former or latter safeguard a bit spurious. I actually have never used LOCK button yet due to the 3th point below.
2) By pressing "Voltage/Current" button you select either the VoltageLimit or CurrentLimit to be adjusted. The display starts blinking to give me a hint on what I am adjusting. Then with another two buttons you can pick the granularity of change ("the digit": 1.00, 0.10, 0.01 and so on) so that you can make coarse or very fine changes. It is not just a digit-by-digit setup: if you have picked Granularity of 0.01 and had a value of "1.15", then spinning the knob will allow you to go to "0.35" or "2.56" in 0.01 steps. You don't have to switchdigit-roll-switchdigit-roll. Cool!
3) But, there's no way of going out of Adjustment mode. it simply times out after a few seconds. And, after timing out, it forgets which setting was adjusted* and forgets the granularity. Now that's irritating. I press the "Voltage/Current" twice to get to AdjustCurrent mode, then press "Left" twice to pick "0.001" granularity, roll up/down a bit, stop rolling to look at results, and then when I turn the knob again - /dev/null - NOP - ignore - no change! The adjust mode has timed out. I have to press "Voltage/Current" twice again and set the granularity again. This is a minor issue, just UI ergonomy, but when having to perform it 15th times in a row, my, that irritates. If it times out, it definitely should remember your last 'location'.
4) The device has a switchbutton that turns the outputs on and off, accompanied with a LED. While in OutsOff mode, it displays the Voltage and Current limits. While in OutsOn mode, the red LED is on and device it displays the measured Voltage and Current. Nice and very reasonable. Although I got scared once when I got back to the room and noticed 10.00/1.500 on the display. I thought that I've burnt everything, but the outs were off and it were just the limits, not current state. You need to watch the LEDs, not just numbers ;)
5) By default, when hitting the CurrentLimit, the device will try to lower the Voltage so that the Current does not exceed the limit. Sometimes it is desired, but not always. With certain active circuits the PSU may start oscillating desperately trying to keep the voltage/current within the limits. However, there's also some delay between measurement and the correction. This means that if the load switches more quickly than the PSU can react, the PSU may make the corrections out of phase, and you may notice that the applied voltage and/or current is actually higher than the limits set. Of course I'd expect that to some degree as in every simple feedback system. What's very important is that the PSU displays the actual values. So, it will not only provide, but also display voltage and current higher than the limit. Good!
6) There's also a different over-limit handling mode: you can set the device into a "EmergencyCutOff" mode. IIRC, if you turn on the "OVP" button, then when the current exceeds the limit, the outputs will be immediatelly turned off. This effectively prevents any of the mentioned oscillations. However, keep in mind that in this mode your circuit may need some soft start enhancements. If your circuit has a power port filled with high capacity caps, then the initial spike of current drawn by just a hadful of them will very likely trigger the alarm point in an instant after you press "OutsOn" button. That's obvious, but might be a suprise for a person like me that did not have a PSU earlier.
7) The device has 4 memory buttons: M1..M4. But it has 5 LEDs that indicate which memory slot is currently used! Surprise! It took me a while to notice in the device's userguide a small note that M5 is accessible by pressing M4 and immediatelly turning the knob.
8) Now, you might wonder why speaking about 'currently active memory slot'. In the userguide they say that you can press the M1..M4 buttons to immediatelly jump to remembered setting, and that you can press the buttons for 2 seconds to store a setting. So, how a memory slot can be "active"? The memory slots hold some settings that you've remembered or programmed, right? Not. How'd you program the M5 when it does not have a button to hold for 2 seconds? :) It turns out that the M1..M5 are "last values used" slots. When you press M3 it really loads the M3's values, but then the M3 stays active and if you Adjust the values, the M3 will get immediatelly updated. There is no way to "exit" from memory slot. At any single point of time you will always be in fact editing some memory slot. But, still, it is quite usable. Maybe not what I'd strictly expect, but in overall - handy.
9) Switching between M1-M4 turns off the Outputs immediatelly. That means that if you switch from M1 to M2, your circuit will get powered off for a moment until you press "OutsOn/Off" button.. not good? I am not sure. One hand, I'd not want to accidentally put +60V on a 5V circuit just because I mistook M2 and M3, on the other hand, I'd really like to be able to quickly switch between 5V/0.1A and 5.2V/0.8A. Oh well. That PSU was cheap!
10) When outputs are off, the device delivers about... -0.3V. Not zero!. That suprised me much. I was fortunate to play with a TTL circuit that has a large margin, but I bet that someone could accidentally burn his chip if without any protection. This PSU seems to have large capacitors at its output, so maybe that "slight" negative voltage is meant to quickly discharge them. I don't know, I just guess. If you buy it, be sure to check what your unit does when OutputsAreTurnedOff.
That's all from the quick notes for now. That covers all the things I've notice about the basic usage. Most of them are not an issues at all, rest of them is really minor.
Summarizing shortly, I am currently quite satisfied with it. It didn't nuked my budget, has some issues, but all basic features work. I'd not recommend it for an intensive daily, as the frontpanel simply lacks ergonomy. But for amateur workshop, as a simple power supply where the current limit only works as a precauion - it fits just great! I just regret the 2 or three channel versions are much more expensive. Eh.
Actually I write this text as a starting point to whole set of another things. You know, that's "digging" blog, not gadget reviews ;) Most of my recent research with this device was about software, since I got irritated by the AdjustmentMode timeout and wanted to drive the PSU by USB. Anyways, that's why I paid extra for the "programmable" part. I've found many interesting things about device, its history and clones, various problems that it had, the protocol, the software etc, I'll describe it incrementally in another posts, probably heavily saturated with links.